Find out what's on through accommodation or by word of mouth; the free weekly magazines Today Tonight Tomorrow and Wot's On are simply business directories. For those desperate for an injection of culture amid all the brash goings-on, check out the programme at the Arts Centre , 135 Bundall Rd (tel 07/5581 6900), where there's a theatre, gallery, restaurant and bar. You'll find cinema complexes on the corner of Clifford Street and Gold Coast Highway (tel 07/5575 3355), as well as inside Pacific Fair Shopping Centre, Mermaid Beach (tel 07/5575 3355), and Australia Fair shopping centre, Southport (tel 07/5531 2200).

Realistically, though, it's Surfers' clubs that provide most of the nightlife. Initially, particularly if you're staying at a hostel or have picked up a free pass somewhere, your choice will most likely be influenced by the various deals on entry and drinks. The places listed below have been around for a while and have a dependable reputation; none is especially chauvinistic, though places do change. Opening times are from around 6pm until 3am or later.

Benson's , 22 Orchid Ave. Boasts one of the few surviving dance floors that lights up, Saturday Night Fever -style. Mostly "alternative" music, very little dance/techno. Closed Mon & Tues.

Berlin Bar , on a lane off Orchid Ave. A bit discreet and stylish for Surfers, with a more civilized scene than you find elsewhere; well-heeled 20-35 crowd being slinky and sexy to Seventies disco and funk tunes. Pricey drinks, no cover charge.

Cocktails and Dreams , Orchid Ave. Seventies nights on Tuesday from 8pm; nightly rhythm and blues at the Bourbon Bar ; cheap drinks and extended happy hours. Closed Wed.

Melbas , 46 Cavill Ave. Big, new, and relatively upmarket nightclub, with nightly happy hour until 10pm.

Palladium , 7-9 Trickett St (tel 07/5570 2100). Surfers' live music mainstay, often attracting major Australian touring bands. There's also a packed and sweaty nightclub here Friday and Saturday nights.

The Party , at The Mark , Orchid Ave. Live rock bands Fri & Sun (often with a $5 cover charge); DJs for the rest of the week.

Penthouse , Orchid Ave. Four floors comprise main dance floor, "R&B room", pool tables and a piano bar. $5 cover charge, generally waived for "backpackers".

Rose and Crown , Raptis Plaza, Cavill Ave. Surfers' "local" pub; entertainment varies from decent local bands to DJs and strip shows (male and female).

Shooters , right beside Cocktails and Dreams . Crowds heading for more serious dance spots start out here for a game of pool and a few drinks.

Surfers Beergarden , Cavill Ave, opposite Orchid Ave. Live music with local and interstate band talent on Thursday and Saturday nights.